Canopy is better aloft

I spent Friday night in days inn Hancock taking cover from the storm. Several tornadoes touched down between Hancock and PA. I missed out on hot dinner and made do with cliff bars and cheap hotel room decaf coffee. Warm and dry I still fidgeted from accumulated fatigue.

I hoped for another early start on Saturday morning. I hoped minimal services would help get me up and out. I fell asleep at 1 am with alarm for 5:45 to catch 6am breakfast and hit the trail. In hindsight it all started breaking down friday night. I stayed up way too late planning an alternate scenic route through Antietam. At 5:45 am I was barely coherent enough to realize my biking clothes were still soaked from the previous night's sink washing. I rolled the clothes in dry towels, jerry rigged the hair dryer to blow over them, set a 7am alarm, and crashed back into bed. At 7am clothes were still wet. I snoozed alarm twice. I thought of getting breakfast while clothes dried. That plan withered in thought and at 9 am I learned my new watch only snoozes twice and then goes silent.

Finally up and moving accumulated fatigue checked my every move. Trapezius muscles ache, hands and ulna nerves tingle, feet twinge, legs feel like lead, and saddle sores on the bum round out the contact points.

Continental breakfast was at least, if not more, heavily preserved than my trail food. The warm and friendly staff provided positive offset to the meal. Eventually, with great lethargy, and with still damp shirt shoes and socks I made it into the saddle to start pedaling. On this morning I think I counted each of the ~600 accumulated miles one at a time with each nerve sensor that fired from my bike contact points.

I hoped for easy miles on the paved WMRT. Storm debris quickly dashed those hopes.

In the first mile I navigated three separate downed trees that blocked the trail and shoulders. My hopes for easy miles quickly eroded as I climbed over, under, around, and through fallen trees.

Storm damage carried over from WMRT onto the C&O Towpath. I stopped counting after the 24th tree crossing.


Initially navigating the trail-turned-obstacle-course gave welcome reprieve to inflamed contact points. That got old after the 3rd round of shouldering a loaded touring bike. Even traveling minimalist the gear, and especially the water, adds up in weight. Learning from recent heat and storm ignorance I checked forecast before embarking. I stocked up with 6L of water for predicted scorching heat. There was water available on the trail. 6L was overkill. That said stocking up once allows me to keep rolling with fewer stops. I harbored dreams I another big day.

A few miles into the trail and before debris beat me into submission I happened on a rather clean downed limb. There were minimal limbs around a 10" trunk. I'd hopped limbs I this size before with no concern so I lined up to traverse the log without dismount. With a smooth approach all indicators were good. I shifted my weight to preload the front fork. I rocked my weight backward and hammered a downstroke to lift the front tire. It didn't budge. I forgot the fork was locked out for pavement riding so it would not compress and rebound. My power pedal stroke was mostly powerless after several consecutive 100+ mile days. Mid frame gear/water weight and handle bar mounted bed roll and food pouch sealed my fate. Luckily the tire lifted just enough to strike the upper leading edge of the log. The lift I did manage avoided a dead blow endo. The front tire bounced off the log and up into the air. Elevation just a bit too late. That in turn nearly bounced me off the bike. Left toe clip released and I clenched the left Ergo handlebar end by just the tips of my fingers.

The rear tire slammed into the side of the log and lurched over reverberating up through my tailbone and rounding out the experience.

The bike and I coasted away from the the log with me much the worse for wear. The jolt addled my core providing a new compliment to the ailing surfaces of my contact points. Mental note: don't try to hop logs on loaded touring bike when tired.

That sufficiently zapped my will power. I eased up to "smell the roses" and nurse my wounded body and ego. I came to a section of river that stood out in my mind. Low grade whitewater made great sounds while attracting rafts and tubes. People floated down river and milled along the bank. There was a nice little concentration of life in the area of Shepherdstown and Harpers Ferry. I learned from helpful trail travelers about the college town, historic area, Appalachian trail crossing, and bountiful services. Internet and trail guides reinforced word of mouth. It all added up to a veritable Eden to this bruised traveler.

It turns out Harpers Ferry is a bit of a mothership for the Appalachian trail. In Cumberland my homeless passing through status drew comparisons to railroad hobos. In harpers ferry that same status garnered welcome and inspiration. I found food and lodging options in a Mecca for recovery and exploration. DC was 60 miles away and it would have to wait.

Location:Shepherdstown

Uncomfortable? Wait a few minutes

Friday was hot. Several cities in the mid Atlantic and south east posted record temperatures. The heat was certainly present on the Great Allegheny Passage (GAP) in the morning. I'm sad to say it was all I could do to guide the bike down the hill from Frostburg to Cumberland. Initially I was holding aero position and a bug eating grin at 20 mph. By the bottom I was a lethargic space cadet. I spent a couple hours in Cumberland eating, resupplying, and avoiding the heat of the day. When I set out again I was in full desert mode fully hydrated, loaded with fluids, and covered from sun.
[pic missing due to dead phone]
After a mile of sun I was enveloped in the canopy of the C&O towpath. The humidity and shade are much more to my liking.
The towpath is a rougher ride. There are roots and potholes. Bushy grass expands out into the walking/biking lanes at times. Bits of the canopy from above fall down into the road bed. Several riders complain about this. On a rigid frame bike it would be jolting. On the Moots YBB just unlock the front and rear suspension and keep rolling. People were amazed I rode aerobars on the towpath. With good suspension anything is possible.
I pressed into the evening for another long day. I didn't think to monitor weather forecasts.
Heading trough Pawpaw tunnel my gear shone again. The tunnel is nearly a km long with no lights and uneven surface. Feeling bold, or stupid, I approached the tunnel, flipped on the handlebar light and unlocked suspension, and kept hammering. It was interesting bouncing along the narrow platform in the dark. It was very much like riding single track mountain bike trails at night.
Well into the tunnel I met a grandfather walking a bike with his granddaughter in a kid seat. They were out for their daily 30 mile ride. This encounter really struck me. Great for him for riding, great break for the parents, great outing for the kid, and the ~2year old was amazingly calm in the dank environment of the tunnel. She wielded her own flashlight and looked around. This is why we need more hike and bike friendly infrastructure. Grandpa assured me I could reach little Orleans before dark easily. Hancock would put me into darkness.
I love riding when the sun starts setting, shadows get long, and temps start falling. Clouds of bugs love this time too. Somewhere along the way I realized I would be riding on the C&O in the dark. The rougher surface would require slower pace. Then a plan came together - I could push hard to the paved western Maryland rail trail and then roll easily into Hancock.
I was clicking off miles when lightening started. I assumed summer heat lightening. Wind started. I assumed thermal variations. Then a big lash of lightening in the distance hammered home the reality of my situation. A huge storm was coming. This lended urgency to the otherwise great riding conditions. I tucked into aero and hammered away.

I found Western Maryland Rail Trail (WMRT) as darkness congealed. The paved flat miles of WMRT flew past. Then storm winds escalated and debris started raining down from the canopy. Rain, leaves, and small limbs fell and floated on blustery winds. It was like being inside a mini tornado. Tunnel vision narrowed on the trail as I rapidly picked lines through debris fields.
Then a rather large stick covered half the trail. Then the stick moved. The rounded body and raised head of a snake came into focus. On wet pavement layered with sticks and leaves grabbing a double handfull of brakes started the rear tire sliding. The tire slid right, the bike faded left, I released the brakes and rode a tight wire on the left edge of the trail right past the snake nose. We each went on our way seeking shelter from the storm.
Further up the trail I came to a wall of green and skidded to a stop. A fallen tree blocked the trail. I made my way off the trail, down the side berm, into the woods, and around the tree. On the other side I saddled up and pressed forward.
Finally I started seeing the lights of town. I whipped two lefts onto main street and met with more good fortune. A family enjoying the storm from their front porch swing helped with directions to the nearest hotel and potential dinner sources. I made it into the hotel lobby as the heaviest sheets of rain hit.
All local food delivery stopped by the time I reached the hotel. The Pizza Hut at the bottom of the hill through the pouring rain had questionably stopped serving. I had a cool dry room and cold dinner of Cliff bars.
This area got heavy storms overnight. Local airports closed and millions were without power. Two days later there are still traffic lights without power. I was fortunate to be hotel bound on this evening. I passed many tents and campers in my race to reach Hancock. I hope they fared well.

Location:Hancock, MD

Eastbound and hot

Heat wave takes care of minimalist camping gear not being warm enough. I think I can add vagrant to my resume after last nights "camp"




I was on the bike rolling at 6:50. My first choice breakfast town wasn't yet open for breakfast so just keep rolling



Tunnel bypass due to nearby dynamite work







Even cold blooded critters feel the warm up. This is the 6th snake of the trip an the first poisonous. He wasn't happy about being photographed




After more climbing my 2nd divide crossing. Thanks to Michael for talking me through the low. Good luck with your DC trip!




Big savage tunnel is 1km long. The cold of tunnel is glorious on a day like this. The descent to Cumberland should be more fun. I couldn't stay in aero holding 20mph all the way down. I was happy about the downhill when afternoon heat hit. I could barely ride downhill.






I hit the figurative wall coming down the mountain. It was a real challenge to be coherent enough to find lunch.




Restocking calories and fluids now. Also laying low out of extreme heat. 6 course meal and then resupply makes good cool time.

My saddle contact points, hands, and feet are all protesting loudly today. Careful tending kept me rolling this long. r&r may be necessary soon.

Cheers from Cumberland for now.

Cadence

Life on the trail takes on it's own cadence. The repeating patterns for me so far are up in the 6 hour, on the bike by 8am, stop around 8 pm, rinse and repeat. One or two extended stops for meals and or resupply during the day. This nets 90-100 miles per day.

I'd like to increase that distance some.

Speed is one option. Inevitably once or more during the day my speed drops to single digits. This happens when I start feeling bad. I haven't been able to maintain balance of hydration, nutrition, and energy level. I believe more calories are required so I'm trying higher calorie snacks. I also had my first Coke since March today. After meticulously flattening it it seemed to get me through a lull. Well, that, a large ice cream, a peanut butter cookie, and a bottle of strawberry apple juice.

Longer days are another way to increase mileage. I need to minimize wasted morning, day, and evening time. Tonight is first camp without fire. I am in a camp ground of sorts with others so should be fine. I rode until 10ish and then scored the last 6 wings at a bar as well as directions to free camping. Only time will tell if the extra hours take too much toll.

Connellsville





McKeesport



Rough "trail" to Pittsburgh


Pittsburgh












Heading back west. Nice bridge pedestrian and bike lanes


Dusty bike


Red runoff



Saw this sign twice today going and coming from Pittsburgh



Seems sad to be past half way already. I am still working out routines.

Pittsburgh

Arrived in Pittsburgh and greeted with hostility. Stopped twice and told this isn't a trail with no directions to trail or even the nearest road.

Time for a spin around the downtown loop and then head back to DC.

Plan B

I've been working on my Plan B for TourDivide. Upon return from Antelope Wells,NM I came down with a sinus infection and spent a week mostly in bed. I recovered from that enough to start getting antsy. I was going back to work early or taking another adventure.

With all the training and gear I opted for adventure. The plan went from concept to execution to departure in four hours in order to catch a free ride and lodging in DC. I'm biking the C&O towpath and GAP from Washington, DC to Pittsburgh and back. It will be around 700 miles round trip with 2 crossings of the eastern continental divide.








Today I crossed the divide and entered Pennsylvania. That adds to the list of AZ, NM, DC, MD, WV, and NC that i've biked in this month. PA is beautiful so far. The GAP is smoother than C&O. After ~90 miles on Monday and Tuesday I finally hit triple digits today.

I camped out last night. As suspected my minimalist gear left me a bit chilly with overnight temps in upper 40's. It worked out well enough as I added layers through the night. This morning I realized I forgot to completely zip the bivvy sack. That may have been enough to eek out comfortable sleeping arrangements. Otherwise a silk base layer would help warm with minimal weight and bulk.






On the plus side I started camp fire with only one match. Pops would be proud or at least content. The fire seems more a nicety than necessity. The sight was irresistible with pre-split firewood and no standing water in sight. In the end the fire took significant time to start and douse. I'd like to learn to do without it.

I really liked the symbolism of rocks on this mile marker from Monday. I believe mountain climbers do similar on mountain tops.



Cumberland is a beautiful town with great amenities, lots of passing cyclists, and a walkable downtown market. I happened into breakfast with a member I adventure cycling association, the former town mayor, the former town accountant, and then miss Maryland made an appearance. Right place, right time.








Cumberland is the transition from C&O to GAP



Hostile territory for a southerner?









I found a bed and breakfast for the night in Connellsville. Shower and warm soft bed for me. Load of hot darks for clothes. Huge dinner of barley soup, spinach salad, and pasta with chicken and vegetables. Feels much better without 2 days of trail dust.

Serendipity

Monday evening I stopped to help a fellow rider with a flat. Holly got a patch and saved from a 7 mile hike. I got dinner and lodging. It was a great evening with a new friend. It was even more beneficial as a cold snap came in that really makes my marginal camping gear insufficient. It would have been a cold night on the ground. Instead I enjoyed a great meal and conversation, a hot shower after 12 dusty hours on the trail, and a soft bed. Phenomenal.

The evening included some back tracking so I re-explored some territory this morning after getting dropped at a trail head.

Pretty quickly I found Dam #4 and the Stallwater(?) Bypass.








The trail and river in this area was particularly nice. I was a bit sad to miss the river scenery.

The bypass was a welcome to WV hills and reminder I wasn't following a river bed. With climbing and traffic it was still beautiful in its own way.





I have some day two soreness and tenderness today. It's not bad just reminders of how good yesterday was. More pressing is the day two hunger. Riding all day really toasts calories and leaves a hollow pit for a stomach. Time for big lunch at Tony's in Williamsport.

Back in the saddle

Thanks to Esther for the ride to DC, place to sleep, and trail drop off this morning.




















































Aqueduct