Kerala India Cycling - Part II

Sunday started early to get a large group a little ways down the road.

Not too early though as we're living on Indian time. 6:30AM roll out was closer to 7:30. We headed west through Sulthan Bathery and immediately uphill. Navigation stated early with 14 turns today compared to only 3 the day before. Directions are reminiscent of Tour Divide. Roads have no names. "After 4.1 kms take the Rt turn". There are no street signs to reference. OpenStreetMaps offline maps show roads and no names. The 4.1kms is promising but inaccurate. It was another day of asking directions at each intersection. Generally we stayed on the larger paved road where both larger and paved are relative.
Mountains, valleys, and tea plantations provided beautiful vistas. This aligned well to the route description. Climbs felt different from the elevation profile.

Climbs first separated us from the pack and then pulled us together as a group. I saw folks struggle and walk on milder hills the previous day. IF we were on the right track then folks were in for a good amount of walking today. While the route seemed questionable we had a strong group of cyclists, a good navigator, and supplies. We'd reach Soochipara Falls, how was of menial consequence. Sky was overcast, weather was comfortable, pedals were turning, conversation flowing, and the KMs ticking by.


We found ourselves, the bus, and breakfast at one appointed location along the route. Retracing the route afterwords in the bus I'm pretty sure we came into town a different way. The breadcrumb trail on my GPS looks nothing like the squiggly line from the route overview. I look forward to uploading the ride to Garmin Connect to review the route, compare the climbs, and have GPS data to back my travels.

The tough riding came before breakfast. Roads leveled out after food easing digestion. Easier riding left time photos to shout out to my friends at Finish Strong, FSSeries,  back in the US.

But not too much time, Vinai was setting a good tempo pushing us forward. We never got to paceline but we were consistently pushing the big ring.

We stopped for a snack in what we expected to be the last town before the final big climb of the day.

The guys were entertained by my meticulous procedure to flatten coke. Sugary drink and caffein for the pep minus the GI stressing carbonation.
Further down the road we found Soochipara falls before our canter (truck). We rode the steep rough climb up to the parking lot. Guards stopped us indicating only walking was allowed on the rest of the route.

Another shout out to my friends at Bull City Running in Durham, NC, USA. The cap is part of my adventure kit. I'd refrained from wearing it thus far this trip as I didn't see anyone wearing baseball caps.

Expectations go out the window when ride time arrives. This kit has, and continues to, serve me well. I did get sunburned on this ride. The bill of the hat protected my face. My neck, ears, and bare arms from the previous day were less fortunate. The sun in India, even in the winter, is formidable. Word to fellow world travelers - cover up. The sunscreen I found in Sulthan Bathery was heavy white paste more akin to sunscreen from childhood.
We eventually got in touch with the driver and needed to ride back down the mountain a bit. The guys seemed very apprehensive about the descent. I never figured out why. I pointed downhill and reveled in the reward of the earlier tough climb.

Thanks to Vijay and Ravi for driving the canter and providing SAG support. Support, Aid, and Gear (SAG) took some explaining.
We dropped cycles at the canter and hiked back up to the falls. Again I paid a higher foreigner entrance fee. This one came with an unexpected perk - I got to keep all plastic including snacks and bottled water. Everyone else had to hand over anything that could potentially become litter. This was an effort to keep the falls nice and, from what I saw, it was paying dividends.

I took one trip to the falls with my new friends and another trip with the rest of the crew when they arrived.
Cycling frequently inspires good conversation and this trip continues the pattern. At the base of the falls I stumbled into a conversation about the challenge India faces with litter. It is common practice to finish something and nonchalantly drop the wrapper onto the ground. You don't have to look for this as it is everywhere in practice and in evidence. I'm curious about this practice and seize every opportunity to probe about it. In my own experience I could never find a trash bin when needed. Earlier in my trip was entertained by rubbish bins at Vishnu Devi inscribed with "Use Me". I previously heard this littering behavior attributed to the cheap labor phenomena. Basically why should I trouble myself with this that is someone else's job.
Today I heard a new explanation - assertiveness and defiance. "I can do what I want; who are you to tell me what to do". This was a new explanation in this locale. It is very similar to an explanation I've heard for litter in Durham, NC. I previously blogged about a ride there were I saw someone finish a bag of potato chips and then drop the bag. The gesture, in that context, was very defiant. "I'm going to do what I want" seems to outweigh "This is my place and I take pride in it". Litter is a big problem. Even where rubbish bins exist they are under utilized. The land, country, and people have a formidable challenge on this task.
After folks played in the water we congregated at the bus.

The bus took us back to Sulthan Bathery for a very late lunch. This came with not-unexpected excitement as police seized our bus driver's license for stopping in a no-stopping zone. Eventually we got underway on the long trip back to Bangalore.
We passed some of the time playing "Mafia". I equate it to attempting to crowdsource truths. Primary roles are Mafia and villagers. Mafia get to know other mafia. Villagers don't get to "know" anything. Mafia secretly select the next villager to kill. Villagers publicly vote on the next person to kill. Game ends when all mafia are dead (villagers win) or when mafia outnumber villagers (mafia wins). It's a great game of politics, logic, and public persuasion.
We stopped at KFC on the ride back. KFC is an almost direct import. The basic fried chicken tastes the same. There are other more localized options.
The final day of cycling started at 6am and ended at 1am. It was a long and great final day of adventure in India.
Now I'm going ramble even more as the hours of flight back to the US are adding up.
Notable differences in cycling between US and India:
* roads - "Road Bikes" from the US do not exist in India. Sturdier frames, wider tires for traction, and taller sidewalls for shock absorption are mandatory. The road wasn't as rough as my ride on Rockingham Nature trail from last year but that wasn't really sustainable cycling.
* horns - A quick honk to say "on your 6" is pleasant early in the day. As hours, KMs, and temperature climbs those honks become more grating.
* wildlife - Though we never saw a big cat it's a thrill to say I rode in a tiger preserve. Casually cycling by an 8' tall elephant is also novel. Monkeys are funny too. They are eerily human like when I am unaccustomed to them.
* navigation - Road Signs, base maps, and GPS may be lacking in the US. In India they are largely useless. Navigate by asking locals and hope for the best. I will give a nod to iPhone/Android app "Maps with Me Pro". It downloads basemaps from OpenStreetMaps(OSM) for offline use. GPS on the iPhone works even without cell signal and it shows my position on the OSM basemap. The OSM basemap has many roads, names, and points of interest. Roads may have no names or they may have 3 names. It's at least a starting point for interpolation/extrapolation. I would also put spelling in this category. Things have multiple names with multiple spellings or no names. This isn't a problem in the basemaps. This is how it is in real life. At least part of this can be attributed to the number of languages where each language or group have their own name for a particular entity. Practice triangulating.
* languages - languages change at state lines or every hundred KM or when the wind blows - whichever happens first. I can't help but feel that much of the gridlock in India is attributed to communication problems. Speaking, like driving, caters to the lowest common denominator and that can be pretty rudimentary.
* nutrition - "energy bars" tend to be chocolate and make wonderfully messy in the heat. I found granola bars only once. A roadside coconut is quite a treat and a bargain at 20 Rupee or about $0.40 USD.
* gear - much less optimized cycling gear. I saw no clipless pedals, or for that matter, pedals with toe clips. Platforms and tennis shoes or sandals were order of the day
* respiratory challenges - I've had respiratory problems for a few years. Cycling in India irritated my respiration pretty thoroughly. Dust, exhaust, and smog are all in full force. Many people in India wear breathing masks, scarves, or something to filter particulate matter while out and about. This would be mandatory for me with any longer term exposure. I'm still coughing a week later after only two days of exposure on less congested roads. Three wheelers, used as taxis here, putter past spewing smoke especially going up hill. I believe they are the pollution equivalent of lawnmower engines in the US - poorly tuned, no catalytic converter, frequently with bad rings so they are clearly burning oil, and generally constantly spewing heavy exhaust. Here's another perspective on the amount of particulate matter in the air - after cycling through the morning on Sunday I used earplugs for part of the bus ride home. Later that night, under decent lighting, I took one look at the earplugs and immediately threw them away. I then washed, flushed, and used multiple q-tips attempting to clean my ears.
* Tea plantations are a boon to local economy. Every town we rode through on the tea plantation had new cars, new three wheeler taxis, and ample commerce. Commerce was clearly visible and a stark contrast to very meager villages elsewhere.
* People, kids and adults both, are fascinated by mountain bikes with gears and suspension. Kids come give high 5's. Adults will ask questions as long as you are willing to answer them. Long distance cycling is still very novel. It's novel in the US but much more so in India.
* Some things are universal. Cycling is a conversation starter. It's a much closer connection to the land and people. Meals taste better after long days in the saddle. We bond over tough climbs and breathtaking descents. Cycling begets camaraderie everywhere.
* Communism - we cycled past several communist flags on flagpoles and painted on the roads. India truly is diverse

GPS Track for day 2: http://connect.garmin.com/activity/259406878

Kerala India Cycling - Part I

With lots of help from a new friend I was able to squeeze in a bit of cycling.

Nilabja signed us up for the Wayanad Escapade with http://www.CyclingAndMore.com. After a bit of last minute gear shopping Avi and Vamsi agreed to join and we were off for some two wheeled fun. Friday night we boarded a bus at 10PM for the overnight ride down to Kerala.

Saturday morning we stopped to freshen up, change into cycling clothes, and have some coffee.






All suited up we headed to the state border of Tamilnadu to get breakfast and bikes. Apparently Tamilnadu was going to charge 28k Rupee road tax for the bus so this was the last we'd see of the bus until we crossed through Tamilnadu and into Kerala.



They issued me a hard tail mountain bike with disk brakes but no front shock lock as my trusty steed for the next two days and projected 150km. Per my running theme I was instantly and pretty perpetually entertained by India roads.



Entering Tamilnadu






On the first climb we passed several elephants grazing alongside the road. One eyed us as we past, took a few steps in our direction, and then settled back into grazing. Then the paved road turned into pot hole pass and I quickly began to appreciate the mountain bike. A bit further up the road villagers were giving elephants morning baths.




We progressed on. I use pictures of signs to help track progress. The bus didn't register while I was taking this picture. Looking back now what is the bus doing here, I though he was subject to massive tax? Maybe a different bus?



We began climbing a bit and found nice vistas of the Nilgiri or Blue Mountains.



I found myself hoping we'd go up there. We did find some good slopes and a tea plantation further up our designated route.


A bit into the climbs I found myself in a new pack of riders. We passed through a town and they pulled in for a break and ordered up some coconuts. Coconut was is inside a skin and therefore safe. The process to cut a straw hole posed only minor contamination risk. Fresh coconut water was quite tasty in the heat of the day. After sipping down the water there was a much more intricate process to extract the pulp. That involved far too much handling of the food for my dietary guidelines. I sprang for the five coconuts to offset my dependence on them for directions. Five fresh coconuts for water and pulp came to just under 100 Rupee or $2 USD.

Back in the saddle we found more climbs. In one uphill switchback Jerry took a tumble when his leg cramped up and refused to move. He was able to get untangled from the bike and step into a convenient nearby tea shop for a bit of shade and refreshment. Soon after that Nilabja came along and we rode together for the rest of the day.

Coasting downhill and giving up some hard earned elevation we found the truck with lunch. Food just tastes better after a good ride and today was no exception. The food was delicious. I managed to tear the bread and sop up food one handed.



The afternoon was just hot. I wonder if some of it was the heavy food. It was also getting late in the day and long in the kilometers. A guy on a motorcycle rode up beside and made conversation. Apparently he opened with a comment akin to "So, you're cycling?".


We crossed into Kerala and I really thought the scenery changed. Vegetation was bit more lush. We made good riding conversation covering every imaginable topic. Heading up one hill a shop off to the side with sodas and shade called out like a siren. We stopped for cool treats.

We pressed on and eventually reached the destination city. I thought maps and signs were bad in the USA. Most navigation comes down to asking three people and going with any resulting consensus. If no consistency then keep asking. We circled part of the town and found our way into the Isaac's Regency hotel.



We freshened up a bit and hung out waiting for further plans. We were hopeful for a trip to Edakkal caves but that ultimately did not pan out as the caves were under construction and closed. We walked around the city a bit, caught up with Avi and Vamsi, and then took showers and naps. Santosh joined us and the guys ordered up a tasty combination of Indian dishes for dinner. Afterwords Santosh and I explored more of the city. We walked to the ends of the lighted city and a bit beyond. The city was closing down and we needed sleep for another day of cycling.

Garmin track for part of the day: http://connect.garmin.com/activity/259406857

Agra India - Part II

Day two of Agra was an obligatory visit to the Taj Mahal. Supposedly it was visible out my hotel window but the fog had other plans. The fog later made for a VERY interesting trip back to Delhi.



Mughal Bazar visible out the window reiterated the foreign influences prevalent in this area.

My guide decided Taj was much too mundane of a day and additional spice was required. So my day started off behind the wheel learning to drive in India. Driving in India is most akin to wheeling or jeeping in the US. When jeeping in the US there are plenty of stationary obstacles. In India there are even more obstacles and they are all in motion. Left handed shifting, right handed steering, and horn use came pretty naturally. Signals were another story where I found windshield wipers more often than turn signals. Wipers and blinkers are reversed on the column. Tracking everything moving outside, shifting, steering, and using the horn make driving a full time job.

Eventually we hired a guide, found a parking spot, and set out to visit the Taj.


This is the eastern entrance gate which is mirrored by a western gate. A southern gate connects directly to what used to be workers quarters and now is a market if I understand correctly.

Inside is another entry gate. Eleven crowns each at the beginning and ending of the tunnel signify the 22 year construction of the site.



Mandatory I was here snap:



Our guide was quite camera happy and posing got old very quicly. We staged a miniature rebellion, took the camera away from him, and settled in to enjoy the sites.

Another panorama and my recollection of the buildings from left to right:
* far left memorial for one wife that gave no children
* red sandstone building adjacent to the Taj whose role I cannot remember but is a modern day luxury guest house
* Taj Mahal for emperor and wife who mothered 14 children and died in childbirth for the last one
* red sandstone building adjacent to the Taj whose role I cannot remember but is a modern day luxury guest house
* far right memorial for another wife that gave no children



The Taj Mahal itself is quite beautiful. No painting; everything is carved and inlaid stone.









These slabs are impressive - carving away the surface to leave floral designs. Inside the tomb are intricately carved "screens" whittled away from single large sheets of marble. By chance I got to see an inner wall exposed to light and the stones inlaid in the marble really do glow almost to the point of fluorescing. Its quite impressive and kind of sad there is permanent display that reveals this feature.

Adjacent "guest houses" are really quite amazing:









And finally a view of the entry gate from the Taj Mahal:



Its a beautiful structure that combines design elements from Moghul, Persian, Muslim, and Hindi cultures. Concurrently it celebrates life (14 children!) and death. I found it reassuring how well the site was maintained especially compared to some other historical sites.

We employed a guide for the Taj. I've tried audio guides and live guides. Personally I favor the audio guides. Listen at your own pace and generally be more assured of the accuracy and validity of information. Live guides do tell some great stories.


While I managed to drive safely enough on the streets of Agra I also wore out the last of my beginners luck. Some element of lunch at Pizza Hut got the better of my stomach. Side note: Pizza Hut does not have marinara sauce. My local confidant thought I was kidding or it was a communication barrier. Nope, honest injun, no marinara. Requesting tomato sauce for garlic bread yields a packet of ketchup.

Concurrently a ridiculously heavy fog arrived for the evening commute back to Delhi slowing travel and extending the trip from 4 to 6.5 hours. The excitement of of this ride started before the fog even arrived. We crossed an overpass with deep craters in the cement. At one point we were rolling along beside a lorry and I watched it drop into a 6" deep crater in the road. We dropped into the edge of the same crater. We were close enough I watched the truck mudflap scrape the ground. The vehicle bodies missed colliding only because the car I was in tapered at the back. Had it been square there would have been body damage. See, just like jeeping in the US, body guards are highly recommended. Later when the fog set in I could see the car directly in front of us but not the car ahead of that one. I could not see the edge of the road out the window. The most memorable part of this was riding along between two lorries and seeing a third suddenly pass by going the opposite direction. Headlights of the truck behind were head high. The one faint working tail light of the truck ahead was head high. Then suddenly out of the soup of fog another headlight appeared coming toward us, traveling the opposite direction, and floating along about head high. It's a really good thing that everything moves slower here. Try as I might I could not get a picture that did justice to the situation.

The next morning fog delayed and canceled flights out of Delhi. Fog was so dense I could not see the end of the jet bridge or the jet parked there. The slow down was a fortuitous opportunity to rest and function on diminished calorie absorption.

I was surprised to discover India also slows down for Christmas. I think everyone appreciates a reason to party. Traffic was light, hotel was short staff, and laundry was two day turnaround. I laid low for my own recovery and to spare others from well worn clothes. I also realized this is how Santa gets his work done - globalization and crowd sourcing. My day time was US Christmas Eve night time.

I'm accumulating a good amount of knowledge about India if conversational reactions are valid indicators. This is a personal perk. On two recent occasions friends have recognized Indian topics after following my adventures. This is an outside perk. It feels good to have a part in bringing the world closer together.

Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays to all.

Agra India - Part I

Discussing traffic will get old. Eventually. In the mean time there appears to be no such thing as a simple outing. The national highway to Agra is roughly equivalent to an interstate in the US. This isn't the new expressway.



Tractors are normal on all roads. Missing from the picture are horse carts, camels, and people riding atop busses. All very normal here. A night time luminescent delight provided a nice regional reminder.



The best traffic treat to date was the drive from Firozabad to Agra on Saturday evening. One side of NH2 was closing for a classic car rally. I think of a rally as a race so that description didn't sit quite right. Whatever the ensuing calamity was sure to entertain. Either police or military were clearing the two left lanes which would generally be west bound traffic. Closing the lanes involved several levels of blockades. The first couple blockades were men with automatic weapons. That would be enough to convince me. People here are a bit more persistent. By the third intersection the authority figures were caning motorcyclists and cars in a friendly sort of manner somewhere above verbal reminders and below blows that would leave marks on the epidermal point of contact be it human or metal. After a few intersections of this there still remained a few persistent folks headed westbound in the left hand lanes. At the next intersection a lorry parked across the road seemed to deter the final stragglers. I'm surprised some enterprising souls didn't leverage the sidewalks to bypass the obstacle. Given the persistence otherwise I find myself hoping they did and just outside the narrow window of visibility available to me.

So both westbound lanes are clear - where does all that traffic go? Why head on into the eastbound lanes of course - with no indication to eastbound drivers. I never saw a road sign, police escort, or any indication to eastbound drivers to expect head on traffic. The first indication was the head on westbound traffic itself. And being winter it was dark and foggy. These are the makings of a thrilling drive. Heading westbound in eastbound lanes going headon into traffic rounding a blind curve to the left and staring into the headlights of at best a motorcycle and at worst a lorry. Then the land of diversity sprinkled in a few more variables. Intermittently we were passing vehicles (liberal usage) on the left and right heading both eastbound and westbound. Vehicles shrouded in darkness included bicycles, human propelled four wheeled carts, horse carts, camels, and a few pedestrians sprinkled in for good measure.



Under good conditions we followed a lorry. Other times we followed another car or a motorcycle. Talk about nerves of steel - riding a motorcycle into head on traffic at night with limited visibility. I heard someone use the word "brave". We'll just go with that.

Oh, and the rally? Approximately a dozen classic cars of various international origin cruising along around 40kph intermingled with multiple modern support vehicles. More Sunday cruise and less Baja 1000. I was wondering what they would do about pedestrians walking in the road when rally racers came tearing through. Eventually the road closing idea broke down and we all cruised along together.


Out and about on the roads otherwise we found some of the most ferocious speed bumps I have ever encountered. They clustered in groups of three to five and unlike the recently described stone steps well worn by foot traffic these somehow retained mountainous jagged edges. I've cycled and jeeped through rock gardens that were smoother than these speed breaking mountain ranges. The speed bumps are a response to a recent accident where a lorry driver plowed through town over speed bumps and killed around a dozen people. This is another sample that suggests immense value placed on human life.

I have to wonder if local horse/mule/camel advocates conspired to erect these speed mountains in an effort equalize the rate of travel and pace of progress. This sounds outlandish to write; I can only imagine your skepticism at reading it; still I think you'd find it similarly viable after being here for a while. This is squarely in the realm of plausible relative to other conspiracies featured daily in regional newspapers.


I guessed marks on the camel neck were a form of branding. It was described to me as :customization". PotAto/potato. Ground effects on your car, carvings on your camel.

Away from all of this is the welcome serenity of an agrarian culture. One may own up to 12.5 acres of irrigated land and no more. The rules about irrigated vs. non-irrigated (residential) and composite totals got confusing but I *think* residential land does not count against the 12.5 acres. I steered clear of the nuances of backyard and container gardening. It was time to step away from complexity and revel in the simplicity of the natural growing season.





People monitor the land to chase away roaming herds of wild buffalo. These beasts are allegedly a nuisance to people and danger to crops despite what their size might suggest. I was told it is illegal to kill most wild animals and punishable by stiff fines. So people monitor the land and chase away the beasts. This doesn't sound like a bad retirement job.



Look at that nice consistent planting. An elder near my father's age reported that mechanized farming arrived in his generation. I saw some older tractors but no three wheel tractors so I suspect only a few decades delayed from the US. A quick easy answer from Google isn't as readily available here. And besides it is fun to observe, converse, and inquire. Ideas, opinions, and perceptions are part of the adventure and frequently come at the cost of only a simple question.

There are several brands of local tractors which I do not recognize. There is the occasional familiar Farmtrac or Massy Ferguson.

Its nice to see the simple mechanical efficacy of the hand pump still employed.



Every pump prior to this was actively in use. This idle one just happened to be the first photo opportunity.

Amid a much simpler life I still found DishTV (two satellites in the picture below). The allure of moving onscreen images appears universal.



Kids and adults alike appreciated games and photos from a world away displayed on a small iPhone screen. Two boys, Abhishek and Arun, were brave enough to take up the touch screen game controls and become the first to bridge the gap between our worlds. Photos from around India were particularly popular. Rebecca the Ironwoman was the most shocking drawing visible and audible gasps. Pictures, in this case, were worth two thousand words - one thousand for each of our languages.

This reminds me of the visitor/host arrangement from bike touring. A visitor shares what they can typically in the form of stories, pictures, and novel gadgets. A host shares what they can typically in the form of hospitality and accommodation. Ever opposing human desires for adventure and stability grease the skids of negotiation.

Delhi and Gurgaon India

I caught up with Lal for a second whirlwind tour. In my first 24 hours in Delhi I slept two hours.


The tour started with the mughal ruins of Qutub Minar. The tower and ruins are an amazing appearance. Walls are carved with beautiful scenes and inscriptions. I find the native scripts elegant and captivating.



The tower is impressive. History of the tower includes several destructive lightening strikes. The top floors were replaced with marble and then destroyed by lightening again. I wonder if there was ignorance of lightening rods or just a preference towards reconstruction.



Script and carvings on the walls are just beautiful.



Then we proceeded to the silence of the Bahai House of Worship. We were batch processed in and encouraged to remain silent. Somehow the one and two year olds, and some adults, were unconvinced. Particularly entertaining was the Chinese Deaf Delegation. Guides repeatedly requested silence and no pictures in both Hindi and English. One delegation member signed the same to the group with little effect. A guide engaged one deaf photographer and the deaf standard bearer charged in defending the hearing impaired. It was quite a mixing of culture, communication, and the changing times.

The building itself is modeled after a lotus which holds great significance across multiple local belief systems.






The view eastward from the temple was both beautiful and bothersome with a blanket of smog covering the city.



Next stop Khan Market and Big Chill Cafe for delicious italian food. Khan Market felt nice. I'm beginning to think there is something simply human and organic about nice shopping and eating districts world wide.






Then we toured India Gate, some houses of government including the Supreme Court, and Connaught Place.

Later in the night (morning) we went out with local contact who were finishing their coverage of US business hours. We found a great rooftop restaurant and ensuing conversation. This also came with late unhealthy food and drinks which I'd pay for the next day. I'm usually pretty careful about diet and sleep to keep on track for energetic daytime adventures. I caved once, had a good time, and got a refresher on the merits of my routine.


After a first round of restorative rest we went exploring in Gurgaon and Delhi via foot and metro. The capital city appears much more western. Communication comes more easily and expats are plentiful.

It's great to find universals joys. Someone has a nice wheeling setup complete with snorkel.



We heard good things about Kingdom of Dreams as a collection of all parts of India. It looked promising for shopping and a show but the timing just didn't work. There was a photo shoot going on and very nice to see the models and coaching.



Then we headed off on the metro. Apparently the local metro was built in just a few years. Construction continues in efforts to reach even more communities. As an outsider I find the metro a tremendous asset. $3 for a day pass and stations near most major attractions. I suspected before and believe even stronger now - extra bonus points to cities with robust metro train systems.



We exited metro at Chandni Chowk. It was an impressive market and allegedly not best place to reveal an expensive camera phone. The market was truly impressive with the array of people, products, and presentations. In hindsight I'm disappointed to have no pictures of this experience.

We made our way through the densely packed market and on to Red Fort.



Unfortunately a stairway to the wall was roped off. Don't mind the bunkered gun covering the entrance :-)



Sultan's "Peacock Throne" rested here while he held court with normal people.



Columns are quite cool. There are artifacts from four(?) cultures in the columns. The one that caught my ear and eye were flames carved into the top of the columns from Persian influence. Persian influence featured several times in the fort.



This is one of two coverings for watching monsoon rains. A channel in the middle of the floor ran with water. The contrasting bunkhouses in the background were built during British occupation.



There is a mosque inside the fort. Orienting the fort toward Mecca as required would conflict with the geometry of the rest of the fort. Solution? Build a wall around the mosque so the geometry aligns with everything else. Inside the walls align the mosque as required. Interior design at its best. Imagine what these guys could have done with Caulk and modern building tools and materials...






Interesting designs on the walls.






Marriott Courtyard Gurgaon was home away from home for this trip. I really like the room layout. The "shower" was subtly downset from the rest of the bathroom. A glass wall keeps the room bathed in light. This is so much warmer than the typical American shower stall.



I found a nice perch on the fifteenth floor for working and writing. The metro train track runs through the picture about 2/3 of the way up. I find it infinitely entertaining to watch tractors, bicycles, Suzuki and Mercedes cars roll by slums and skyscrapers alike - usually on the left.



It was interesting to experience a call center in Gurgaon. They provide local opportunities that would not exist otherwise.